イースト・ビレッジといえば、70年代のボヘミアン文化が未だ色濃く残り、さまざまな国の文化が融合された、まさにエスニックなエリアです。“今日の食事”を何にするか迷っても、イースト・ビレッジに来れば、ドメスティックなアメリカンはもちろんのこと、日本をはじめとするアジア諸国のレストラン、中近東からヨーロッパの小さな国の専門料理を出すレストランまで、じつに豊富にそろっているため、食文化で世界を知ることができる、と言っても過言ではありません。そのなかで、今回注目したい国籍料理がフランス料理です。「フランス料理」と聞くと、やはりその金額やマナー、また聞き慣れない食材の書かれたメニューなどをすぐに連想し、気軽にいただきたいシーンでの食事では敬遠されがちです。今回は、とりあえず高級フレンチ・レストランは、ミッドタウンやアップタウンのレストランにお任せするとして、気軽にジーンズで入店し、大皿でいただける“肩肘張らない”、でも本格的なフレンチ・ビストロをご紹介します。
イースト・ビレッジと言っても、エリアこそ外れてはいませんが、レストランなどが密集した俗に言うイースト・ビレッジからはちょっと外れた、まさに、往年のビレッジの風景が未だ色濃く残るエリアにある『26 Seats(26 シーツ)』は、その外観から、まるでフランスの片田舎の食堂に来たような、そんな暖かみを感じ取れるようなこぢんまりとしたビストロです。店内へ入れば、まさに店名のように、“26席”分のテーブル数で、インテリアや小さな小物も、まるでパリの蚤の市で見られるような骨董品であふれています。そもそも、店のスタイルが“気負いがない”ので、いただく側も気楽に食事ができるというもの。そんな『26 シーツ』でいただけるお料理は、まさに、本物の“フランスの家庭料理”。なかでも、ニンニクとキノコのクリーム・ソースのエスカルゴは、どのグルメ誌でも大好評です。手間ひまかけながら調理される鴨や羊、魚介は、高級フレンチ・レストランにも引け劣りません。そんな、この『26 シーツ』におけるインテリアやお料理、デザートまでのすべてを、THE NEW YORK TIMESは「まるで小さな宝石のようなフレンチ・レストラン」と評価したほどです。
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